Sunday, January 16, 2011

Arrividerci, A Presto!

I found visiting Italy emotionally difficult, more than I imagined. Lingering memories of both mom & dad hovered as ghostly veils in those places we had travelled together. Luke's enthusiam for travel & knowledge of history fanned the flames of wonder & amazement at sights where I wish he could have been with us.

Everyone asked when we would return. It's then I bring to mind what my Italian friend said when she was correcting a letter I'd written to one of the family in my struggling Italian: Paula, you want to use arrividerci instead of addio. After all, you want to leave the door open to the future ... you want to say so long for now, see you again sometime, instead of i'm never coming back again. Well, then, it has to be arrividerci, a presto! dear family!

The Rite of Conclusion: Milano (Big Bang or Gliding Transition?)

Flecking off that irksome countdown whisperer, I was determined to enjoy the last couple of days in peace, without being cheated of what remained of my blithe Italian spirited adventure.

It seemed an unending drive from Viterbo to Colico. Long highway stretches, rush hour traffic followed by divisive narrow detours, finally arriving in Colico mid-evening, way after the fat lady had sung her last note. We managed to find Carmela's place, with her, Benito, Carmen, Romano & Ivan, all patiently awaiting our approach, well, perhaps a bit worried...

Carmela's just as alluring, & self effacing as I remember; a smile dawns upon her entire countenance. She's beautiful inside & out. So wonderful to see all the family together & we set off in a tangled jumble of leap-frog with languages once again! Ah, it was so darn good to see my family again!

Setting off to Milan early the next morning, we weaned ourselves away from our bucolic, cozy,friendly B&B 'Sci d'oro' with vistas of Lake Como & distant mountains, and delish (!) breakfasts. Giuseppe & his friend, Martin, met us for our appointed viewing of "Il Cenacolo" housed in Santa Maria delle Grazie church. Just thinking about seeing da Vinci's "The Last Supper" made the hair on my arms electrify; I had wanted to see it for long! The immense scale, the imagery, portent of Jesus' destiny, in that hushed, vastly barren, hollowed room, underscored the magnificence of the work.

We gawked at the opulent Gothic Duomo cathedral with its commanding flying buttresses, strolled through the popular 19th century arcade, The Galleria, stopped at La Scala Opera House & Sforza Castle & a brief visit to see Giuseppe's mom, Irma.

The following day, our wonderful tour guide, Benito, ribboned us around Lake Como, lunching at Dongo, where the Italians still proudly announce that it was here that Mussolini was captured trying to flee over the Swiss border. On to the picturesque lakeside village of Menaggio where we had the best gelato in all of Italy! Steve rebuked me saying every corner has a gelato shop & I say each one is the best in all of Italy! Seriously, Steve, THIS one had the best gelato!

Photos: Milano & Lake Como ... the Northern Terminus


Finding peace in Carmela's garden;Ivan, Romano, Benito all giving directions.


Different viewpoints of Lake Como: Menaggio & Colico.


Menaggio's version of a "malecón" or boardwalk.


Pranzo with Carmela & Benito in Dongo; View from our B&B in Colico.


Photogenic "girls" in Colico; Giuseppe teaches us some Italian.
Commonality of plumbers & Italian men; Milano's Duomo.
Standing outside Santa Maria delle Grazie;"Last Supper" painting inside.

Visiting with Irma; Milano's impressive Sforza Castle.

Meet Me in the Middle: Visiting Viterbo Families

Picking up a rental car & an Italian driving "attitude", motoring south to north, passing Rome again for Viterbo, 1 hour north, we were met by Marcello & Adriana & their beautiful, darling girls. I was surprised to see how tall Vanise was & met Eleonora for the first time. Luckily, Adriana speaks a lot of English so I didn't have to struggle with my rudimentary Italian jumbled with Spanish, peppered with the excitable hand gestures & corresponding Italian gusto!

Joining us for dinner were Rosetta & Alfonso & his visiting brother, Silvio, we had so much fun & laughter, in between the usual multitude of meal servings & courses; right hand on the fork, left hand imbibbing the local grape harvest in succession interfused with sprinkles of Portuguese, Italian, English & Italian. Wow! how delightful. Why don't we do this every night?

Nowhere was the melancholic euphoria so intertwined though as when they surprised us with a visit to the plateau that is Civitá di Bagnoregio, mom's favorite travel spot in Italy. The radiant sun elevated my spirit, the shadows intensified my restlessness. A walk through time, in more ways than one.

We met with momma Ninetta, also Antonio Franco & Clarise & Claudia in Carpisa where they bestowed more gifts! I am speechless & overwhelmed... Ninetta treats us all to fabulous pizza at a local pizzeria the following night. Wandering through the winding cobbled streets, it seems I had another past here sometime. Passeggiata over & over again, that perpetual evening stroll, couples arm in arm, dogs roaming, kids giggling, scooters zigzagging, lighted cafés beckoning, a bevy of activity & charm, I feel captivated like one following the Pied Piper. If so, lead on, Piper!

Photos: Viterbo families .... In the Middle of Italy


Goodbye Foggia-Ascoli families!Hello Viterbo families:the Guadagno's!

More Guadagno's,at Carpisa;home with Rosetta, Alfonso, his brother,Silvio.

Sisterly smiles, Adriana & Rosetta; eye delights: Italian pastries!

Cuddles with Vanise & Eleonora; with Ninetta.

Civitá di Bagnoregio with Marcello too; lunch en route north to Milano.

Family Visits Begin....a Southern Start: Foggia & Ascoli Satriano

The last time in Italy, my mom, Lee, & I were graciously welcomed by ALL the family and this time was a repeat of heartwarming hospitality, generosity, and familial love. Our church group departed Rome for the USA on Friday 4/23; Steve & I headed southeast by rail to Foggia, home of Ciccio, Teresa, Giovanni & Carmela. (Carmela had been delayed while travelling in the US due to volcanic ash, airplane cancellations. We were disappointed to have missed her.)

Ciccio & Teresa were our hosts for a couple of days & took us to see family & friends in Ascoli Satriano, where we surprise-visited Anna, Mario/Paola & family, the family Mastracchio/Miscio. This is where Lee's mom & dad were born! Ciccio & Teresa also drove us to the Puglia coast: fortess at Castello Sant' Angelo & San Giovanni Rotundo where Padre Pio taught & preached.

The joy & excitement of seeing everyone again was overwhelming & was to be a bittersweet journey of elation yet sadness as I felt I was dogging the haunted shadows, in the footsteps of where mom & I began the same family adventure 7 years ago. I was there again reliving the journey for the two of us.

Photos: Family Reunions in the South: Ascoli Satriano & Foggia


Gifts from family hosts Teresa & Ciccio; Giovanni at the computer.

Puglia coastal town; Ascoli Satriano family & friends.
Ascoli Satriano, home of Paula's grandparents; with Paola & Anna.
Padre Pio/San Giovanni Rotundo;Teresa & Ciccio cooking up a storm.