Arrival in Kusadasi/Ephesus, Turkey

The current Ephesus had faded into ancient history, its citizens the victims of malaria from receding waters due to a silted harbor, and decline of trade in a transitioning era away from idolatry. Remaining townspeople moved a few miles further to settle alongside the current Aegean sea waterfront. The good news is Ephesus remains wonderfully intact. Famed for the temple of Artemis, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world; Library of Celsus, her shrine; statue of victorious Nike; largest outdoor amphitheater; sophisticated aqueducts, bath complexes and public toilet systems. When St Paul lived in Ephesus, he was embroiled in dispute with its idolatry vendors. In the shadows I could imagine the whispered flutter of ancient robes, vendors enticing passersby with their wares, the congregated lingering of men in conversation; walking down the bleached stoneways reminded me so much of Petra although I didn't have an opportunity to sit down on a public toilet in such a full view of other tourists! Before boarding our cruise ship, we had a short stint in Kusadasi at one of the many factory showrooms where we got an intro into the art of rug weaving and design. Beautifully handmade rugs with prices to make Antony & Cleopatra flinch!

Photos: Ancient Ephesus

Ephesus amphitheater; lintel with Medusa detail.

Steve at Samson pillars; the Library of Celsus.

Mykonos and The White Rabbit

Evening view of Mykonos; the waterfront pier at dusk.

Mykonos cafés facing Little Venice; entrance to Lena's house.

Arriving in Mykonos close to dusk gave us a quick impression of the landscape before the evening curtain fell. Although the cruise schedule allowed us only a few hours, we traipsed around the tiny downtown labryinth of passageways and paths to inhale a sense of the port town. Grey street stones that resembled cobblestones were paint-outlined in white, appearing like a fantasy island setting when contrasted against bright white, smooth stucco exteriors with shutters and doors in rich crayola primary colors of blue, orange, green, or red. I shouldn't have been surprised if a white rabbit popped out of nowhere!

A short walk quickly placed us high atop an outlook watching the sun set, Mykonos' picturesque windmills squatting at the waters edge in the distance. High class well-lit boutiques, outdoor café tables & chairs perfectly set with bright white coverings awaiting patrons who hadn't yet arrived, a posted menu, sometimes a bottle of wine, flowers, plants or romantic candles beckoned passersby; another time, it might have been some beautiful woman in repose, waiting, gently swaying a leg crossed over the other, tamping a cigarette into a glass ashtray glancing about for her anticipated partner.

We accidentally "found" Lena's house, a late 19th century home left intact just as the owner, Lena, had willed it to remain. Now, furnishings stay just as they were. It's basically a museum and interesting to see how an upper class Greek would have lived at the time.

Drifting past Little Venice, the waterfront area of houses built out over the water, and cafés whose tables extended like the spread of lava poured out their front door, our ears ringing with a cacophony of loud music, youthful laughter and chatter conversely mixed with the aromas of cigarette smoke and luscious culinary items, we waved Mykonos 'bon voyage'.

Considering Athens

'Get in & get out' was the usual mantra quoted. So, I didn't think Athens would be one of my favorite places and certainly the traffic, smog & congestion of 11.3 million, (yes! million!) people would make anyone feel like a blade of grass on a baseball field. However, with a manageable plan and some great friends (our pilgrimmage group), I began to feel like I could get excited about this city!

We walked a lot, climbed onto whatever wasn't prohibited, peered through anything closed, and tasted a delightful variety of culinary offerings. The Greek people smiled and chatted easily despite daily distractions of both internal and external political agendas.

A big smile goes a long way...

And, what about all those people flocking to the earth's navel, Delphi to worship Apollo where he slew Python, or distressed Aegeus leaping to his death at the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion? Guess after all that emotional mythology, next stop was serenity-based Mykonos, springboard for an island-hopping cruise tour.

Photos: mainland Greece & Mykonos

charming mykonos: cafés awaiting patrons, eye-popping

crayola hues trimming whitewashed buildings,

stone outlined paths, glimpses of island life,

flashlight beam sunsets, marina juxtapositions,

church steeple outlines, and US southwestern style landscapes.

done hunting for the spirit of the delphi oracle, steve rests.

one of athens' many cafés, even one inside ilias lalaounis

jewelry museum; his jewelry creations. frescoe in

church of the apostles.

hmmm..what's for lunch? frida kahlo in athens!?

steve eyeing the local deli; arches, acropolis amphitheater.

temple of poseidon, cape sounion; acropolis gleaming by night.

outside acropolis amphitheater;temple of poseidon,

cape sounion.

detail frieze depicts battle of theseus w/the pallantids;

standing in front of the hephaesteion temple built 415bc.

the acropolis in repose; the erechtheion w/athena's olive tree.

at the acropolis complex; en route to delphi:plaka in arachova.

At home with Georgia

Sometimes anticipation becomes such a Goliath image in our mind, no reality could ever live up to it. Waiting a few years to see friends not seen for 3 decades makes the imagination soar to unrealistic levels. What will they look like? What kind of person are they now? How will we get along together? So many questions to needlessly occupy the idle mind.

But from the moment the taxi arrived at Athens airport and Georgia walked towards us, the veil of time dissipated. It became just 'the next day' from when I'd seen her last. Always gracious, always caring, no fuss, and after spending those few days together I know she's found her home because Greece becomes Georgia; it's where her soul resides.

We lingered, Steve & I, enveloped in that fugitive bubble of time called travel, spun by the magic that is Georgia, allowing ourselves to be vacationing sponges, absorbing all the Peloponnese delights from rice-stuffed tomatoes, snow-iced mountains, hikes through monasteries, sweet black coffee, colorful & fragrant flower blooms, the air echoed with hearty laughs and heartwarmed conversations of Georgia, Athena, Bruno, and friends. It seemed a timeless place and maybe it is; still a village, modernity tiptoeing through timeless ruins and eternal landscapes.

Thank you, Georgia, for reviving the intimacy of friendship with your sincerity and goodwill!
Love from Steve & Paula

Photos: visiting Georgia, Peloponnese

saying goodbye to our generous & loving friends! sincere thank you!

the monastery's church; coffee & treats hospitality!

inside the monastery church; beautiful wisteria in their gardens.

inside the monastery;herding sheep in the olive tree strewn mountains

more views of githio's shoreline; and looks like drying calamari to me!

seaside town & water view - githio, southern peloponnese

athena & bruno in githio; with beautiful georgia too!